The central dome connecting two arcades at Mirogoj Cemetery in Zagreb

I took a trip up to Mirogoj Cemetery because it’s listed as one of the top things to do in Zagreb. Had I done a little more research, I might have been more prepared, but all I really knew was “it’s a big and beautiful cemetery.”

Well, it’s certainly big, and it’s certainly beautiful.

The ivy-laden arcades, tree-lined avenues, winding paths, incredible sculptures, massive domes, and detailed tombs make the grounds feel more like a palace garden than a cemetery. I started at the south end, figuring I’d wander my way up toward the other end of the arcade and find somewhere to sit and write along the way. I wandered for a couple hours before finally reaching the northern arcade. And then I peered beyond it.

The place seems to go on forever. I’d only managed to see a fraction of it.

I didn’t end up walking through the whole thing. As much as I enjoyed the serenity and the architecture, I was getting eaten alive by bugs (no joke, I had five mosquito bites on my right foot alone) and felt like I’d seen my fill.

As much as I’d love to wholeheartedly recommend a visit, I’ve got to say that right now is not the best time. Much like the rest of the city, the 2020 earthquake did massive damage to the cemetery. The more I see of Zagreb, the more clear it is to me that the city is overwhelmed. Croatia is a young country, in terms of independence, and there is little in the city that wasn’t impacted by the quake. It’s clear they prioritized safety by cleaning up debris and putting up scaffolding to prevent any potentially loose fragments from falling on unsuspecting pedestrians. But with so many structures in need of restoration, so many potential safety hazards, and so many restrictions and limitations due to the pandemic and resulting worldwide economic problems, including the skyrocketing price of gas, the progress is slow. Construction seems to persist endlessly, all over the city, but there are far more blocked off or scaffolded buildings where nothing seems to be happening at all.

Mirogoj is like a city in and of itself, and the struggles I’ve observed in the city are mirrored on the cemetery’s grounds. All the major structures I saw are entirely blocked off, with debris still littering the ground around them. This means you can’t walk the arcades, or get close enough to most of the artistic contributions to see them very well. Many of the headstones, obelisks, and statues are damaged and clearly awaiting replacement. Entire rows of graves head either thrust up or collapsed on one side. There are massive cracks in some of the larger structures that don’t exactly look structurally sound, and given how thoroughly they’ve blocked it all off, I’m guessing it’s just as unstable as it looks.

Still, it’s well worth a visit, and I’m sure that restoration is a priority and will plod steadily along.

Unfortunately, I don’t have pictures of the damage. At the time, I was actually trying to avoid capturing the damage, aiming for photos that captured the beauty of Mirogoj as it should be. Now I wish I’d been less selective, so I could show you what I’m talking about, but hindsight is 20/20.

The land was purchased by Ljudevit Gaj, a prominent writer (a kindred spirit!) and linguist who was a leader of the Croatian national revival. He intended to turn it into an immense residential estate, but the project ultimately left him in immense debt, so it was auctioned off to the city after his death. With several cemeteries throughout the city all reaching capacity, the city elected to transform the property into public cemetery for all denominations. It opened in 1876, and architect Herman Bollé (a very familiar name to Croatians) was hired to construct a series of structures on the grounds. The arcades, central dome, chapel, and morgue are all his design, though Bollé died before the latter two were completed.

In 1928, the cemetery reached its capacity of 100,000 people, and was further expanded. Today there are supposedly more than 300,000 souls laid to rest here (I haven’t been able to confirm that with a primary source, but having been there it’s very believable). Among them are a number of notable individuals, including Gaj and Bollé, as well as Croatian’s first president, Dr. Franjo Tuđman, and NBA star and Olympic medalist Dražen Petrović (Portland Trailblazers and New Jersey Nets).

If you’re visiting Zagreb, Miragoj cemetery is easy to reach from Kaptol (area around the cathedral) with the 106 bus.