September 13, 2022: Feeling like a Starlet in Split

Split has been used to set the scene for films and tv shows, including Game of Thrones, and it’s easy to see why. Setting foot in the old city (Diocletian’s Palace and the surrounding area) is like stepping back in time. It feels altogether too magical to be real life. Even the drinks at

Trsat Castle were tinged with the trappings of reality. While unbelievably spectacular, it wasn’t perfect—that kind of flawless where you wouldn’t be surprised if everything was suddenly lit in that Hollywood glow. Split is a city you can lose yourself in. Be perfectly content to never emerge. It’s a place where you catch yourself unironically attempting to move things with your mind, just in case you’ve suddenly gained magic powers. It feels like the sort of place that would draw them out, were you to have any, no matter how deeply buried they were. It’s the kind of place where, if I had bumped into a handsome stranger, I would have expected him to, coincidentally, be my soulmate, and probably some sort of royalty.

And yes, everything was mysteriously lit in that Hollywood glow.

The white stone the city is built of gleams without being glaring. The winding, meandering streets and pathways are artfully chaotic, a maze that’s freeing rather than enclosing, that allows you to feel alone despite the crowds of people just around two twists and a bend.

This historic sights here (Diocletian’s Palace) are incredible. You need to buy a ticket to enter everything, and there are different ticket options covering the cathedral, treasury, tower, and so on. Each ticket gets you different options. We went into the cathedral, underneath to the mausoleum, and across the courtyard to the treasury. I was happy with that, though I think it’s probably worth it to get the ticket that goes up the tower. I’m sure the view from the top is fantastic.

I would say you probably don’t need to get the most expensive ticket that gets you into everything. I think anyone would get sick of it by the time you got through it all, and there’s a lot to see just by wandering around this part of the city.

The port area is gorgeous. The harbor is rimmed with beautiful structures, wide walking paths lined with fluffy palms, and more gelato, fresh seafood, coffee, and alcohol than you could consume in a lifetime. The sea licks at the sides of dozens of fishing boats, and larger sailing rigs drift further out. Music, laughter, and the gentle splash of water are the soundtrack responsible for the fun and relaxed atmosphere. Stroll the boulevard or wind through the nearby backstreets.

We ended up walking back up to the Golden Gate (on the northeast side of the original Diocletian’s Palace complex from 2000 years ago) and crossed through it, discovering tight, winding alleys in the northern part of the complex that were filled with shops and restaurants. We ate at Pizzeria Portas, and enjoyed some of the best pizza I’ve ever had. After dinner, we made our way back to the courtyard in front of the cathedral. The bar there, Lvxor, has live music at night and cushions on the steps all around the courtyard, so you can sit outside, sipping a cool, delicious drink while soaking in the looming arches, tower, and palisades of a Roman emperor’s elaborate retirement home lit in that too-perfect Hollywood glow. I snagged some gelato from a shop one street over to complete the evening, and we spent hours there, sitting a few feet away from the band (well, Nicole was, I spent most of the time dancing, surprising no one that knows me at all). The night felt magical, particularly when I was sufficiently foolish enough to draw others up to dance, and suddenly we had an international group of around 20 women dancing and belting out the lyrics to Edge of Seventeen.

We were reluctant to leave, but eventually the band went home, the bar closed, the courtyard emptied, and the night grew cold. So we walked back to the car and reluctantly put Split in the rearview mirror.